Stunning Prague

Prague is known as the city of 100 spires – and that’s wildly underselling it, it’s more like a thousand. Everywhere we looked there were more spires – all ancient and adorning ancient buildings, multiple towers boasting multiple spires – Prague knows how to fit in a spire. The resulting cityscape is spectacular. It exceeded even my lofty expectations. They say Prague is beautiful – and honestly, its much more beautiful than you can imagine.

The Vltava River

The Old Town

I love an old town, anywhere we go if there’s an ‘Old Town’ I’m in – it’s where we always find the best markets, the most history, character, beauty, and connection to the past. Prague is no exception and the Old Town is where I was drawn over and over again. The centre of the old town is the square, and as squares go – this one is awesome.

Your Travel Writers, Katie and Fiona, in Prague Old Town Square

Central to Prague’s Old Town Square is an incredible astronomical clock – now I can’t say I figured out how to read it, but it was a sight to behold, and approaching every hour tourists gathered in numbers to watch the delightful show of the chiming of the clock and the ancient figures moving to mark the hour. This was so special, we loved being there in the crowd to watch it chime and perform for midday, but we loved being there in quieter times where we could linger and really take it in. Later, when on our cycling tour we learned more about the old city hall building where the clock is mounted…

…Many ancient towns boast their own versions of grim history, and Prague is no different: This building and the tower above the clock, is the historical site when in times past, disgruntled townsfolk gathered to storm the city hall building, gather up their targeted leaders, drag them to the top and hurl them out the tower to the stones below. While shocking to hear, what I found truly ghastly is that the locals have dealt with their unwanted leaders in this way three times in recorded history! Thus, we learned a new word coined by these very events in Prague – Defenestration. Those with political ambitions in the Czech Republic, beware!

The Astronomical Clock

Bridges

The bridges of Prague are as glorious as they are numerous. You’ll encounter them crossing the Vltava River simply by way of moving about the city. But take the time to go back to the Charles Bridge after dark, as well as in the day. The 30 baroque statues lining the bridge are simply fascinating and seeing them in the different lights brings them to life and will make you wonder at their stories. The towers at each end are fairytale-pretty during the day, yet nightmare-imposing in the night, take it all in. A walking bridge only, The Charles Bridge invites you to take your time, so do.

See more of Prague by night with this incredible River Cruise

The What Machine Museum?

While not a uniquely Prague attraction, this one caught our eyes as we walked past it in the Old Town while perusing the shops, The Sex Machine Museum. We couldn’t resist! While it seemed like a fun, light-hearted look at the history of sex toys, some of the machinery was enough to make anyone clench at the thought!

From the obvious to the truly creative, it was genuinely interesting even while we had a giggle at some of the exhibits. The dark little room at the back showing vintage pornography that was somehow rather quaint was a fascinating inclusion. However, I can’t say we lingered – this is worth the entry fee and will make you smile (and wince!) but is more like a half-hour fill-in than a day’s outing.

And no – there’s no gift shop!

Jewellery? Don’t mind if I do…

As we’d discovered earlier in our trip, jewellers are ubiquitous in European cities, and Prague was no different. Prague’s local gem is the garnet, and you’ll find garnet jewellery on offer on every corner, from modern costume jewellery to classic, vintage wares, there’s a lot on offer and we were pleasantly surprised by the prices.

On selecting some special pieces for some special loved ones, I absolutely selected a darling little gold and garnet ring for myself – how could I resist when it’s one of the few souvenirs that won’t challenge my bag allowance?

The Cycle Tour, of course!

The cycle tour we did in Prague was brilliant, and I won’t stop telling you how cycle tours are such brilliant ways of seeing new places. Our guide was knowledgeable, helpful and always entertaining and took us to places we’d read about – and places we hadn’t. And as we were the only people on the tour, she was also happy to customise the trip to suit us – this included taking a longer way home to enjoy more time cycling in lush green parks rather than take a more direct route on the road, and she gave us great advice to bars to go to later in our visit.

Fascinating moving statue - of two men urinating on the Czech Republic!

Our cycle trip took us on a circuitous trip through the Old Town, around about and then up to Prague castle. On the way, we saw some remarkable statues and sculptures both ancient and modern – in this instance some of the more modern ones really impressed. We made it to Prague castle at exactly the right moment to watch the changing of the guard (good tour guides always time these things so well) and then had time to explore the outside of the castle itself, hearing about its history, and marvelling at the incredible beauty and detail embellishing the huge cathedral within the castle walls. I’ve seen many a cathedral around Europe, and to be honest it takes a pretty great one to impress me – but this one is well worth your time.

While there, our guide regaled us with tales of warning about the fate of the Habsburgs, the royal family who once ruled over much of Europe – including Prague. She told the story punctuated with this advice, delivered in her thick Czech accent: Don’t f*&k your sister. If only anyone had warned the Habsburgs!

For a more in-depth tour of Prague Castle and perhaps learn more about the ill-fated Habsburg Royal Family, click here.

Our irrepressible guide took us to other such places as the Lennon Wall – a graffitied tribute to peace and to John Lennon himself.  Lennon apparently never visited Prague, but came to symbolise something important to Czechs. We were also taken to what she correctly described as the best view you’ll ever see of Prague – a non-descript little lookout in a park on a hill, where we actually gasped to see the view.

I can’t recommend this tour highly enough, look it up here.

The Lennon Wall

Hotel or Botel?

Being a river city – Prague offers some accommodation options right on the Vltava River itself, we opted for the Botel Matylda, a little boat hotel just a walking distance from Charles Bridge and the Old Town. This darling old boat is now permanently moored and boasts facilities that you’d find in any good hotel. Our rooms were spacious and well-appointed with gorgeous bathrooms at one end and coffee machine at the other, with a huge comfortable bed to fall in at the end of the day. While the well-reviewed hotel restaurant was situated on the boat next door – we didn’t get around to trying this – we love our coffee and pastry breakfasts on the go and local offerings for lunch and dinner, before we knew it, we’d missed our chance to dine on board, but as we always say, what a great excuse to go back.

Hemingway Bar

This one is definitely in the splurge category, and while it would be fabulous to while away an evening trying many of the cocktails here, you may find your budget limits that somewhat – it certainly did for us! Knowing it was going to be a one-drink wonder for us, we took our time pouring over the extensive menu to make the perfect selection – ensuring the four of us ordered a different drink each so we could share a sip and try them all!

The atmosphere of the Hemingway Bar doesn’t surprise – but it does impress. It is exactly the measure of moody luxury that the name suggests, with an exquisite balance of refined elegance and lush comfort. While at first, we wondered if Hemingway himself had once drunk in this establishment, we soon learned this bar was inspired by, not frequented by Hemingway. We were shown to a low table by a well-spoken and immaculately presented server, despite not having made a reservation.

Ahh those gorgeous drinks!

Our pricy cocktails did not disappoint, and the presentation took us from the sublime to the ridiculous, we delighted in each one! A whiskey drink served inside a suitably ancient book, a gin cocktail for one served in a laughably tall but tiny tapped glass globe, a fruity offering with caviar served in a glass boat, and a delicious coffee infused drink served in an elegant, perfect tumbler. We also delighted in watching others around us being served their drinks, feeling like we were in some bizarre Mad Men-Esque Alice in Wonderland adventure! When your feet are tired of walking and you’ve earned a special treat, this is absolutely the place to stop and spend a little longer than necessary savouring a really special drink. If your budget allows it, take the time to sample a few, but for us we loved our one glamourous drink and were happy to head back out into Prague to find a local spot for a Czech dinner.

Prague met our needs in every way we could expect, not only were the sights and experiences just wonderful, it was also easy to find a great sports bar when we needed it (the Formula 1 was on), little thrift shops (oooh don’t we LOVE a thrift shop in a foreign place), as well as lolly shops, fresh food markets, souvenirs both typical and some more unique (carved wooden nutcrackers for Christmas!).

Oddly though, Prague might be the most beautiful place where I took the fewest photos, because every time I looked at Prague through my camera screen, it just couldn’t do it justice, and I can’t think of anywhere else I’ve been where it was just too beautiful to click.