London: Pubs and Palaces
- riokatie
- Oct 13
- 8 min read
Ahhh London, there’s no denying this is one of the world’s epic, timeless, iconic cities. London was the setting of my OE – the classic Overseas Experience so many of my generation enjoyed. It was a rite of passage, and while destinations did vary, London was the number one destination, and its not hard to see why.
At 19, with not much to see me through but an inflated sense of confidence and my new-acquired Nanny School Diploma, I disembarked in London and entered a formative year in my life. It took me more years than I care to calculate to return to London, and I was filled with nostalgia for what London had once meant to me, alongside trepidation for what she became in the intervening years. I needn’t have worried, the London I knew has endured.
So what has changed in these intervening years? The London Eye has sprung up in my absence and is now firmly embedded in the London skyline. There are many more skyscrapers – some notable like The Shard and The Gherkin, and most of which disappear among all the rest.
Kensington Palace Gardens now has various Diana memorials, whereas back in my day, Kensington Palace housed Princess Diana. We walked her memorial walk, visited her statue, and her memorial fountain and took a moment to remember this remarkable woman and her contributions.
In a moment of nostalgia, I walked the length of Notting Hill Gate and into Holland Park in the rain, finding my old street, and none of it seemed to have changed at all. It was charming and beautiful then, and charming and beautiful now. Names of shops had changed, but it felt as though little else had.
So here is London 2025: If you’re lucky enough to have time in London, take note!
Getting Around
One of the many things to adore about London, is just how easy it is to get around. With the advent of apps for everything, public transport has gone from great, to just brilliant. Tapping on and off the tube and busses just makes it so easy, and with the frequency of trains and busses, along with plentiful stops, it just couldn’t be easier.
While the London Black Cab is almost an experience in itself – and you should absolutely take a trip this way – its an expensive way to get around and rarely is it necessary.
If you want to see all the key sites and make life really easy, the Hop On Hop Off Bus is the best choice by far, this is a great one with excellent reviews.
Where to Stay
We always say to stay near public transport, and in London it would seem impossible not to. So, pick your hotel central to where you expect to be – everywhere is so accessible. We chose to stay close to Kensington Gardens which was a wonderful place to wander in early morning hours when jetlag had us up and about too early for very much else.
Pavement Pint
London charms in ways I didn’t expect. The Pavement Pint is one of those darling parts of SOHO culture we adored. Pub too small? Can’t find a place to stand? Just wander outside with your glass, cross the road even, wander along until you find a place to stand. We loved forming our own little crowd and watching the world go by – this would never be legal in our hometown, and there’s something so wholesome and ordinary about this charming side of pub culture.
Speaking of Pubs, find some time to enjoy a typical pub lunch – we recommend the classic roast complete with piles of roast veges and Yorkshire pudding spilling over with gravy! Be warned though, it’s a generous serve!
The Westend
We love the theatre! Particularly musicals, so no visit to London would be complete without tickets to some Westend Shows. There’s always plenty to choose from, many of them long-running, and some featuring stars of the big and small screen.
We had a pleasure of seeing the classic musical Oliver – and it was an absolute delight from the set to the singing; we were blown away by the quality. Later in the visit we took in a matinee of Book of Mormon – and again we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, this extremely funny and very entertaining show was an outstanding example of the newer, modern shows appearing on the Westend and Broadway these days.
The Markets
London’s markets have endured through time, and there are some classic ones you can’t miss.
Portobello Road Market Sprawls through the streets of Notting Hill – barely a short walk from the Notting Hill tube station. This has always been a street market, bringing the area to a halt with stalls lining both sides of several streets. I wandered down among the stalls with my little charge in his pram nearly 30 years ago, and it all came back to me in a flash on this visit. However, these days a little more order guides the placement of the vendors, with numbered boxes painted on the road itself.
While you’ll find many market and market-adjacent shops throughout the week, this is mainly a Saturday market, and you should get there early to make the most of it. Its popular, and can be crowded, but with its focus on antiques, curios and all things thrifted there are endless treasures to find. Make sure you take some time to explore the side streets around Portobello Road; you’ll find many shops away from the busy ness of the main market where you can browse and buy.
Borough Market is an absolute treat to the senses, a busy food market selling both fresh ingredients alongside incredible ready-to-eat options. Showcasing English producers, the food here is the highest quality – make sure you go at lunch time ready to pick multiple dishes to try and take advantage of the free samples generously and readily handed out. You’ll be full to bursting by the time you stagger back to the station.
Other notable markets include Camden Market for alternative fashion and music, Colombia Road for flowers, and Old Spitalfields for crafts. Allow plenty of time for visiting the markets, make time to stop and eat there and take in all the vibes.
Shopping
There’s no way to mention shopping in London without diving into Harrods, and Oxford Street. I remember both fondly from many years ago, and while I know there are many changes, somehow, they’re just the same.
Harrods is a feast for the eyes – a devastating array of goods! The food hall is my favourite – I’m completely enchanted by the range of foods on offer; I could stare all day. Buy my lunch there though? Probably not… I fear I’m not the target demographic for Harrods, but I’ll savour the sights behind those shiny glass cabinets like exhibits in a glorious food show!
Oxford Street though, is the High Street to rival all others. With so many recognisable chain stores and bigger department stores, this is the more likely shopping forum for the likes of us. The hustle and bustle of the shopping crowds make you want to hold your handbag closer, but the vibe of the city is undeniably vibrant and intense.
The History! The Sights!
London is steeped in its own royal history, of kings, queens, and castles. The scene of endless royal occasions over the centuries and an enduring commitment to preserving these historic places, leaves London an abundance of palaces, bridges, statues and churches well worth your time.
Westminster Abbey is a must-see stop for any admirer of history. The overwhelming number of historical figures entombed there is worth every pound of entry fee. The audio guide is informative and well-paced, and serves not just as a tour of an incredible and complex building, but as a window into the past with tales of how various notables came to be buried there, their stories and their demise. In Westminster Abbey, you can barely take a step without stepping on someone’s grave – except of course for the tomb of the unknown soldier, who represents every soldier lost, and is the only tomb that is never stepped on.
The countless other sights of London include the Elizabeth Tower housing the fabulous bell of Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament next to it, and the Tower Bridge, as stunning in real life as every picture you’ve seen. The Tower of London Tours are fascinating and inspiring with stories of The Crown Jewels, many famous executions, and of course the ravens of the tower which make an impression on every visitor.
And then there are the palaces: Buckingham Palace boasts the changing of the guards, while Kensington Palace is nestled in the fabulous Kensington Palace Gardens. Take some time to stroll up the Mall and take a break in Hyde Park. The People watching alone will inspire and delight. If you are looking for a daytrip out of the city, take a trip to Hampton Court Palace, famously the main residence of Henry VIII. Get lost in the old hedge maze in the garden and listen out for Anne Boleyn’s ghost in the palace itself. It's an easy train trip from London, and well worth the day.
Eating Out
Trying the local food is a key aspect to all of our travel, so London posed something of a challenge – the fare being so similar to what is served here in New Zealand. But, we knew some classics had to be tried in their place of origin:
· The classic English Roast – try this in any pub, most have their offerings posted on signs outside so you’ll know what’s available.
· Fish and Chips – make sure you have the full English experience of Fish and Chips by including the mushy peas and the curry sauce with yours. The curry sauce was a surprise hit for us!
· Curry? Is this British? Absolutely! For generations people with roots in India have made England their home, and the curry has become an iconic part of English culinary history. Its undoubtedly Indian, but its British too, trust me on this, its great!
· The Full English Breakfast – not for the faint hearted, this will stick to your ribs and see you right through the day (at least until time for your pub roast!). No-one does the cooked breakfast like the English – eggs, bacon, sausage, baked beans, toast, tomatoes, mushrooms, and often with some black pudding too! Forget about your arteries for this meal, have with a big cup of milky tea and enjoy!
· Chinese Food! Okay no, this isn’t English, but Chinatown in London’s SOHO has to be worth a stop for a sensational Chinese meal – don’t miss this!
· High Tea anyone? – Taking in a traditional, posh High Tea at one of the big old hotels is a great way to pass an afternoon. High Tea can be quite a ceremony, with time taken to savour dainty morsels of sandwiches and cakes, and of course the ubiquitous scone with jam and cream. There are many venues for a High Tea, shop around for options that will cost you an arm and a leg or quite a bit less – based of course on how dressed up you want to be, how far in advance you care to book, and how much time you want to take. Does the cream go on first or the jam? A debate for the ages.
There might be more exotic destinations to spend your holiday, but London offers too much to be overlooked. After nearly 30 years between visits, I can't believe I left it so long and I'm looking forward to returning much, much sooner next time.
And its jam first, of course!
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