Naples Travel Guide: Italy’s Grittiest, Tastiest, and Most Unfiltered City

Naples is often just a transit point for those heading to the Amalfi Coast or Sorrento, but if you skip it, you’re missing out on one of Italy’s most fascinating, lively, and let’s be honest, delightfully chaotic cities.

This is a place where old men in singlets sit on chairs in the street, shouting at young women named Maria, where you need to watch your step—not just for the historic cobblestones, but in case a local on a moped screams obscenities at you for daring to exist in their path.

But beneath the grit, Naples is bursting with character, history, and some of the best food you’ll ever eat in your life. If you like your cities polished and orderly, maybe stick to Milan. If you like them real, raw, and unapologetically Italian, welcome to Napoli.

Things to Do in Naples

Explore the Historic Centre

Naples' UNESCO-listed historic centre is a maze of narrow streets, grand piazzas, and centuries-old churches. Walk through Spaccanapoli, the street that slices through the old town, and soak in the chaotic beauty—colorful laundry flapping above you, scooters flying past, and the occasional unsolicited but passionate debate between shopkeepers.

Visit the Ruins of Pompeii

Just a short train ride away, Pompeii offers an eerie yet fascinating look into ancient Roman life, frozen in time by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. Walking through its remarkably well-preserved streets, homes, and amphitheatres, you’ll get a striking sense of the city's final moments. The famous plaster casts of people caught in the disaster add an unsettling but deeply human element to the experience. To get the most out of your visit, consider taking a guided tour. One popular option combines a guided walk through Pompeii with a visit to Sorrento, offering the perfect mix of history and coastal charm. Having an expert explain the significance of key sites really brings the ruins to life. This one from Get your Guide was well worth the cost.

Ancient Romans had running water, but no Wi-Fi. Were they really ahead of their time?

Take in the Views from Castel dell'Ovo

Situated on the waterfront, this historic castle offers panoramic views of the city and the bay. It’s a great spot to catch a sunset or just take a breather from the lively chaos of Naples. Plus, its name means "Egg Castle" because legend has it a magical egg was hidden in its foundations. Naples loves a good legend.

Discover the Naples Underground

Beneath the city lies a network of tunnels and catacombs that tell the story of Naples' past, from the Greeks to the Romans and even World War II bomb shelters. It’s dark, it’s mysterious, and it gives you an excellent excuse to escape the summer heat (or the occasional motorbike that decides to use the pedestrian street as a shortcut). You can find a great tour here.

Stroll Down Via San Gregorio Armeno (The Christmas Street)

Naples is home to a street entirely dedicated to Christmas, no matter the time of year. Via San Gregorio Armeno is jam-packed with tiny shops selling handcrafted nativity scenes, quirky ornaments, and figurines of everyone from the Pope to your favorite football player. It’s chaotic, crowded, and the perfect place to pick up a Christmas decoration even in the middle of July.

Crossing the street in Naples is less about traffic rules and more about sheer confidence. Good luck!

Experience the Napoli Atmosphere & Pay Homage to Maradona

Walk through Quartieri Spagnoli, where balconies are draped with laundry, voices echo through alleyways, and every street corner has a group of men who seem to have been sitting there since 1972. Naples isn’t just about the sights—it’s about the sounds, the smells, and the energy that pulses through the streets.

Here is also where you realize Naples loves Maradona. No, really. The city worships him like a saint. You’ll find murals, shrines, and an entire cult-like devotion to the football legend. If you want to pick up a Maradona-themed souvenir, this is the place. Whether it’s a jersey, a keychain, or a candle depicting him in saintly form, you won’t leave empty-handed.

Come for the stunning architecture, stay for the existential crisis about how many churches one city can have.

What to Eat in Naples

Naples is the birthplace of pizza, and quite frankly, they do it better than anyone else. Here’s what to eat when you’re here:

Pizza Margherita

The original, the best. Simple, perfect, and cooked in about 90 seconds in a blistering hot oven.

This is not just pizza. This is a religious experience. Naples, you win.

Sfogliatella 

A crispy, shell-shaped pastry filled with sweet ricotta. It’s impossible to eat neatly, but worth every crumb.

Ragù Napoletano 

A slow-cooked, rich meat sauce served with pasta, because Naples does comfort food like no other.

Limoncello 

Because after consuming all of the above, you’ll need a shot of something strong.

Where to Stay in Naples

For a luxurious stay, the Grand Hotel Vesuvio is a stunning waterfront hotel with incredible views over the Bay of Naples. It offers elegant rooms, exceptional service, and the added benefit of being just far enough from the city’s chaotic streets to give you some breathing room. If you want a grand, old-world experience with a touch of glamour, this is the place.

If you're looking for something stylish yet more affordable, Palazzo Alabardieri is a charming boutique hotel in the Chiaia district. This area is known for its upscale shopping and slightly calmer atmosphere, making it a great spot if you want to enjoy Naples but also have a peaceful retreat at the end of the day. The hotel itself is elegant and welcoming, with beautifully decorated rooms and friendly service.

For budget travelers, La Controra Hostel is a fantastic option. It’s a social and budget-friendly hostel housed in a former monastery, offering a mix of dorms and private rooms. The courtyard is a great place to meet fellow travelers, and the laid-back vibe makes it feel like a home away from home—without the need to sell a kidney to afford a night's stay.

Final Thoughts

Naples is not for the faint-hearted. It’s noisy, unpredictable, and doesn’t care what you think. But it’s also beautiful, historic, and home to some of the best food you’ll ever eat. If you embrace the madness, you’ll fall in love with it. Just keep an eye out for those mopeds.