Marseille: History, Harbour Views & Mediterranean Magic

Before we arrived in Marseille, we’d heard mixed reviews — some people made it sound like a crime-ravaged chaos zone, while others swore it was a hidden gem. We braced ourselves for the worst… and were pleasantly surprised. Maybe what throws people off is that Marseille feels more Mediterranean than French — it’s got its own rhythm, its own flavour, and a bit of beautiful grit that sets it apart from the polished charm of Paris or Nice.

Marseille isn’t just France’s oldest city — it’s a vibrant mash-up of old stone streets, salty sea air, turquoise water, and food that’ll ruin you for anywhere else. From cathedrals that tower over the harbour to pizza that makes you rethink everything you knew about pizza, there’s a lot to love here.

Me pretending I planned this photo, but really Marseille did all the work.

Things to Do

Old Port (Vieux-Port) & Mucem + Fort Saint-Jean

We visited the Old Port both early in the morning and late at night — and honestly, that’s the best way to experience it. In the morning, you get fishermen unloading their catch and locals grabbing coffee by the water. By night, it’s a whole different scene — bars humming, lights reflecting off the boats, and a warm Mediterranean buzz in the air.

It’s busy and touristy, and if you were going to get pickpocketed anywhere in Marseille, this would probably be the place. There’s a visible police presence, though, and while you notice it, it never feels unsafe. Everywhere you turn there’s something to catch your eye — from the colourful boats to the cafés packed with people and the stunning harbour views.

It’s bustling, exciting, and full of character. Wandering through after dark, with the air still warm and the energy of the city all around, you can’t help but feel part of the action.

Just a short walk away is Mucem — the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations — and it’s fascinating not just for what’s on display, but for what isn’t. The museum subtly (and sometimes not so subtly) points out how many important Mediterranean artefacts are sitting in collections elsewhere — and let’s just say the French don’t mind throwing a little shade at the English for their questionable historical “acquisitions.”

Inside, you’ll find a mix of modern art, history, and cultural exhibits that keep things interesting, but the real star is outside. The museum connects directly to Fort Saint-Jean, where you can wander the ancient ramparts and take in incredible views over the harbour and coastline. Standing there, it’s easy to imagine how this fort once guarded Marseille against invaders arriving by sea — and now, it just offers some of the best views in the city.

Just casually surveying Marseille like I own the place.

Notre-Dame de la Garde

Perched high above Marseille, this basilica is the city’s watchtower — and the views alone make the trip worthwhile. The golden mosaics and ornate interiors are beautiful, but it’s the sweeping panoramas of the city fringed by turquoise sea that truly steal the show. From here, you feel like you really understand Marseille’s layout, energy, and character.

Getting there is part of the adventure. There’s a public bus — Line 60 from the Old Port — which is my top recommendation. If you check the route on Google Maps, it’ll show you exactly where to catch it. Take the bus up and walk down if you can; it’s cheaper, easier, and you avoid arriving gasping for breath. On our walk back, we passed plenty of people looking like they regretted every decision that brought them up those steep streets!

There’s also the “Petit Train,” a small tourist train that climbs the hill. It’s popular, but when we were there, the queue was absurdly long — walking down instead gave us more time to soak in the streets, views, and atmosphere.

Whether you go for the architecture, the history, or just the jaw-dropping vistas, Notre-Dame de la Garde is a Marseille must-see

Cathédrale de la Major

Often underrated, yet utterly spectacular, Marseille’s Cathédrale La Major is a Roman-Byzantine masterpiece that demands attention. Unlike many European churches these days, it’s free to enter and conveniently located right by the Old Port — in fact, it just so happened to be at the end of the street where we were staying, so it was impossible to miss.

The cathedral itself is huge, with soaring ceilings, intricate mosaics, and countless little nooks that make it easy to get pleasantly lost inside. Step outside and you’re rewarded with sweeping views over the harbour and the city, giving you a sense of Marseille’s scale and charm. Its grandeur, both inside and out, makes it a visit that’s absolutely worth your time.

Proof that ceilings can absolutely steal the show.

Le Panier

Le Panier was easily my favourite part of Marseille — it’s full of the charm and character of an old city. Wandering its cobbled streets, it’s easy to get lost among the countless little stores, cafés, and bars, each brimming with personality. While it’s still busy and touristy, it somehow feels authentically Marseille in a way that the port doesn’t.

This oldest quarter of the city is a treasure trove of surprises: vibrant murals peek around every corner, artisan shops hide tucked-away gems, and tiny cafés invite you to pause and soak in the atmosphere. It’s charming, a little edgy, and for me, the perfect spot to eat, explore, and simply wander — a delightful contrast to the bustling energy of the Old Port.

Le Panier: where even the walls have personality.

Palais Longchamp

For architecture and gardens, Palais Longchamp is well worth the visit — whether you choose to walk or take a tram if you're feeling tired. I have to admit, I hadn't looked up what this was before we got there; it was simply on my "must-do" list. As we wandered up the steps, taking in the extravagant fountain, we kept asking each other, "What is this place?"

A quick bit of Googling later, and it turns out this isn't even really a palace — it's a monument, built to celebrate Marseille getting water. Talk about next-level celebrations! It’s almost impossible not to appreciate such a grand gesture, especially when today it seems like even a small art installation requires endless approvals just to get off the ground.

The fountains, the water, the lush gardens — Palais Longchamp is one of those places where you can slow down, snap photos, and simply soak in the elegance. It’s a little bit of grandeur and a lot of charm, right in the heart of the city.

Trying to blend in with the grandeur… not sure it’s working.

Harbour Tours: A Fresh Perspective on Marseille

Exploring Marseille's harbour by boat offers a unique and refreshing perspective of the city. A leisurely cruise allows you to admire the historic Fort Saint-Jean, the bustling Old Port, and the stunning coastline from the water. It's a wonderful way to experience the Mediterranean charm of Marseille.

For a memorable experience, consider the Iconic Calanques Boat Tour with Swimming. This tour takes you through the Calanques National Park, offering opportunities to swim in crystal-clear waters and explore hidden coves. It's a perfect blend of sightseeing and relaxation.

Where to Stay

Luxury: Treat yourself at InterContinental Marseille – Hotel Dieu if you want sweeping harbour views, grand interiors, and a touch of pampering.

Stylish Mid-Range: Staycity Aparthotels Centre Vieux Port balances modern, boutique vibes with spacious, comfortable rooms.

Our Pick / Personal Stay: We stayed at Residhome Marseille, and we’d do it again in a heartbeat. The location is perfect — close to the Old Port, Le Panier, and main sights so you’re not wasting time in transit. The room was functional and well-appointed, breakfast was a solid spread with a little bonus treat, and the on-site laundry was a travel win — nothing like fresh clothes midway through a trip.

What to Eat

Let’s be honest: you’re in Marseille for fresh seafood, sunshine salads, crisp olive oil, herbs, and, of course, pizza.

Next-Level Pizza: One meal had us thinking, “this might be the best pizza I’ve ever had.” We grabbed a takeaway from Pizza Cosy, and honestly, it rivalled anything we’d had in Italy. Perfect for a quick bite while exploring.

Sunshine Salads: Fresh, colourful, and crisp — these salads taste like summer on a plate. You’ll find plenty of spots around the Old Port where a simple, well-made salad feels like a feast.

Proof that aimless wandering can be the best way to discover a city.

Mediterranean Classics: Marseille is all about fresh seafood and dining al fresco. Many restaurants line the Old Port, offering gorgeous sea views — ideal for a night sitting by the water. For charm and atmosphere, head to Le Panier; the terraces there have some really lovely spots to linger over dinner.

The best part of travel? Eating somewhere that feels like a postcard.

Marseille is a city that celebrates simple, high-quality ingredients, and no matter where you choose to eat, you’ll walk away full, happy, and maybe already planning your next meal.

Final Thoughts

Marseille sneaks up on you. It’s rough around the edges in places — the streets and public transport can feel a bit gritty — but in the best way. The city is hot, but the transport is surprisingly efficient: we could just tap on and tap off with our credit cards on buses and trams, which made getting around really easy. Don’t underestimate Marseille if you’ve heard some less-than-favourable things — we really enjoyed exploring the city, and there’s plenty to keep you busy for a 2–3 day stop.

It’s also an ideal base for day trips: we did Monaco, and Nice is an easy hop; the coastline, charming villages, and seaside towns are all close enough for spontaneous adventures. (If you’re interested, our Monaco guide is [here] for ideas.)

If you love cities that are part old-world charm, part ocean breeze, and part culinary feast, Marseille delivers on all fronts — stunning views, incredible food, and a city with real heart.

Trying to capture the city in one shot… almost nailed it.

Have you been to Marseille or planning to go? I’d love to hear your thoughts, tips, or favourite spots in the comments below — especially if you’ve found a hidden gem or the best pizza in town. Let’s swap notes!